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Pico Iyer's essay in Time magazine on Maximum City
The City as Hope and Horror A new book about Bombay reveals the
future for all of us By Pico Iyer
Here are a few statistics from Suketu Mehta's stunning new book, Maximum City. In some parts of Bombay, you can
find 1 million people in a single square mile. Two million of the
city's residents lack access to latrines, and the air has 10 times the
maximum permissible levels of lead (to breathe it in, as 5 million or more
living on the streets do every second, is equivalent to smoking 2 1/2
packs of cigarettes a day). An unusually large number of criminals are
either shot in "encounters" or tortured to death in detention in Bombay;
four years ago, only 4% of criminal offenses saw convictions. The
courts of India had, at the turn of the century, a backlog of 25 million
cases. At the present rate, these would take 350 years to clear.
This all
has resonance because Bombay, Mehta says, will be the largest city in
the world 11 years from now; what happens there is just a more dramatic
instance of what happens in Jakarta and Bangkok and La Paz. And the
only people maintaining standards and facilities in this Jacobean society
are, almost inevitably, members of the criminal underworld, who run
things more efficiently than do their government counterparts. Even judges
turn to mobsters for help. "Our motto," a criminal overlord tells
Mehta, "is insaaniyat, humanity." When an ordinary, law-abiding citizen
comes to Bombay from elsewhere, Mehta shows, he soon learns that just to
buy a movie ticket or get the plumbing fixed involves shortcuts and
contacts. Before long, he too survives only by breaking the law.
When some
of us read of such an upside-down society, we sit back in the comfort
of our apartments and think, "There but for the grace of God (or India's
millions of gods, or luck) go I! At least I live in safety and have
more than the one room that is the most that 73% of Bombay families can
enjoy." Yet the thrust of Mehta's book, and studies like it, is that
every city in the world is being reclaimed by the countryside and, with it,
by a more tribal, atavistic form of law and order. Bombay happens to be
the place where millions of rural Indians flock; but if they do well
enough in "the Golden Songbird," as they call it, they set their sights
on London, New York, Los Angeles. The whole world is being colonized by
the have-nots.
In the cozier corners of our imagination, we tell
ourselves of a "global village" and relax in the image of a settled place,
governed by tribal elders, steadied by ancient traditions, with a
village green around which everyone can gather. A village, in the popular
imagination, has a quaint and settled air; it moves on the human scale.
There may be village idiots, but the village itself observes the
changeless rhythms of nature and religion.
Yet what our newly linked world
more precisely resembles is a global city, Bombay-or Los Angeles-writ
large. Thou-sands of tribes assemble in a single space, but there is no
common ground for them and they have no common values. Nor is there any
kind of organizing intelligence to make sense or order of the masses. The
pace of the village is that of a bullock cart, or a folk song; the
rhythm of the city is that of an MTV video, broken up, superaccelerated,
posthuman. If it takes a village to raise a child, as Hillary Clinton has
said, it takes a city to corrupt her.
And yet the city is where the
hope is, together with the links to a global economy. Who would not want
to be amid the bright lights of a hub? "There's no money on the farm,"
a young man from Danang province, Vietnam, told me last month,
explaining why he was riding me around Saigon on the back of his motorbike to
support the family he never saw. The girls in the local bars, like their
counterparts in Manila or Shanghai, might have said the same thing:
they would give up security, community and family if it led to a chance
for cash.
I read Mehta's book, by chance, a few weeks ago in Rio de
Janeiro, where 700 favelas, or officially designated slums, spread across
the hillsides and seem ready to mud-slide down and swallow up the
Sheraton hotel and the condo blocks beneath them. According to one Brazilian
friend, 400,000 people arrive at the city's bus station every year,
seeking a new life, only to find that all the jobs and houses-and
lives-have been taken up by others like themselves. They can survive only by
joining the underworld, and a child is seen as irresponsible if he goes
to school when he could be supporting his parents by running drugs. If
the population of Bombay continues to double every 10 years, it will
eclipse that of Italy by the year 2015, says Mehta. We may dream to
ourselves of the beauties of a "global village." But then we wake up to the
reality that we're stranded in a planetary metropolis.
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